南米旅行記 1997年-1998年(チリ編)

South America Travelog 1997-1998(Chile) tenagamon Fri, 04/11/2008 - 23:28

This is South America Travelog in 1997, Chile part. An aim of travel was to see the penguins and glaciers in Patagonia. I went Santiago first, and then I went to Patagonia. On the way back from Patagonia, I stopped at Puerto Montt, and went side trip to Chiloe Island and Osorno and other mountains.

サンチアゴに到着。Hotel Tokyoへ行く。

Arrived at Santiago, went to Hotel Tokyo post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 11:11

I wrote an original text in Japanese in 1998. This is a translation in English. ===============================================

December 18th, 1997

I arrived in Santiago on the red-eye flight. I left “Arukikata” (Japanese Guidebook) Peru edition and “Exective Orders” Vol.1 by Tom Clancy at the inn yesterday. Regarding Vol.2, I left it at Monte Carlo Hotel in Punta Arenas. My first impression when I landed at the airport Arturo Merino Benitez in the early morning, was it is cold. Why is it so cold? El Nino?

Make a phone call to Hotel Tokyo at the airport. This hotel is listed under the name Hotel Japon in “Arukikata”. Japanese and his Chilean wife, who speaks Japanese well, run the hotel. I talked her on the phone, and booked successfully in Japanese, then I immediately headed to the city. I got out of a terminal building and found ‘Tour Express’ bus stopped, then took it. A ticket might be sold somewhere, but it seemed that I could buy in the bus. I showed the address of the hotel to bus staff and told that I wanted to go there. Nobody cling to me when I got out the terminal building, and there is a nice airport bus, it’s a great difference from Peru. The town is clean and safe, it has a good transportation, things are neat, it is easy to travel in Chile. But it doesn’t have an Asian bustle, there are no cheating guy, phony bastard. Some traveller who love Asia may miss them. I think, rather than watch the lives of people, it is good to see the great nature. The bus came close to Los Eroesu station. The bus staff kindly told me "The street you’re going is other side of this road. the bus stop at the station, you will go back a little down this road”, with pointing out the window. I became to love the country of Chile, because of his experience on the first day. I rang the bell of Hotel Tokyo, old woman came out. I had to imagine a more young, I was a little surprised. Her name is Monica, she married a younger Japanese, and have lived in Japan for 10 years. She said she was going to forget so fast because she didn’t speak Japanese after moving to Chile. Her husband has been working in the city office in Japan. He will retire in three years and come to Chile after that, and she is waiting for it. Until the room I stay is ready, she let me show the video of Japanese TV in the living room. She has many old Japanese potteries and dolls in the dining room and the living room. She bought them from Japanese who lives in Santiago. Japanese immigrants auction antiques brought from Japan when they wanted money. She has a Japanese old gun, and asked me how much it is. I replied it’s a million yen. She bought it at about 300,000 yen. She said it was very cheap.
Hotel Tokyo, Santiago

Courtyard of Hotel Tokyo

The room became ready and I carried the luggage. it’s US $ 35 room with a private shower. It is a little expensive. I can enjoy the chirping of birds and the courtyard with beautiful flower. I recommend for those who like that sort of thing. I asked her if there is a place to wash my cloths, then she said I should go to a laundry shop. A cleaning is cheap because it is fixed price, 2,000 peso per one cleaning even though how many cloths I take to the shop. I got taught mystery spell, “lavado y secado”, it means “washing and drying”. “Hmm, lavado y secado, lavado y secado, …” I decided to the town center first, then go to a laundry shop. First, I went to an AMEX office. Many dirty travelers who are odd with a fine office have come. When I went to the AMEX office, they made a queue. Why they came here? Because at this AMEX office, travellers can exchange their AMEX travellers’ check with US dollar. If you want Chilean peso, the rate from US dollar is good. It is very grateful that we can get US dollar cash in the land of South America. It has no meaning of traveler’s checks if I exchange them with a large amounts of cash, but I will use more and more US dollar while I go around the south of Chile, so I cashed US $ 500. As the Sun rose higher, it became more and more hot. Street at Centro that the vehicles are shut out for pedestrian is very crowded. It seems to have come to the Christmas shopping. I found many people eat a mountain of ice cream while walking. I also tried. There are various Ice cream at the shop what I do not know which is which. I choose Chirimoya ice cream. It is super-heaping. It seems that everyone loves ice cream. I decided to take a lunch at the Central Market. I was looking forward it. When I went backside of the market, I found some restaurants. Men and women at there said to me, “Uni!, Sakana!” (“Sea urchin!, Fish!”) . I entered a small restaurant, and looked for something from the list on the wall. “Paila Marina”, it seemed good, I decided to ask this. Thing that came out is what should be called seafood soup, yeah, it was very delicious. There is also something similar called “Sopa Mariscos”, I did not know where how different. It was 1900 pesos. I found a sea urchin, but it is 3000 pesos, look a bit expensive. I found that it pretty expensive at about 3000 pesos , or 4000 pesos at shops elsewhere. I left the central market, then go to a great church to see inside and Lan Chile office to reconfirm my air ticket. When I go back to the hotel, I found that I forgot the mystery spell. Hmm, it may OK without the spell. I went back to the hotel and I was looking for a laundry shop Monica said to me. It is easy to find, there is a price list at the entrance, and it says “Lavado ... 1000, Secado ... 1000”, I finally remembered the spell. "Lavado y secado, por favor" The spell was right. A man at shop accepted. I forgot how did the conversation, I found to be coming to take Siete (7:00) anyway. I back to the hotel and slept. It’s 10 pm when I woke up. I did not go to take my cloths eventually. I also didn’t have a dinner.
From the spring of 1997 to the spring of 1998, there was the biggest El Nino in 20 century. But in December, it doesn't effect to a climate of Chile. At least it doesn't make it become cold. At Santiago, it was chilly in the morning, but very hot around the noon like a summer of Tokyo.
"Lavado y Secado" means "washing and drying"
Sopa Mariscos means "Seafood Soup". For "Paila Marina", see Wikipedia


Walking in Santiago post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 21:19
replica of the mummy of a child replica of the mummy of a child

Fri., December 19, 1997

Santiago is a city of museum, they said. I decided to go one of the museums. I chose Natural History Museum. "Replica of the mummy of a child 500 years ago which was discovered in the highlands of 5000m" and "the oldest rock in the world of one million years ago" seems to be the main attraction.

The museum is located in the park of Quinta Normal. The park is easy to go by about 20 minutes walking from the subway station. I can't help saying, "What a hot it is! It's too hot...", while walking, but it's not so long distance to arrive. After I entered the museum, immediately I realized that I had a difficulty. All Descriptions are written in Spanish. So I have to look at exhibitions with relying on the imagination from a few lines of commentary of "Arukikata" guide book. In fact, I hadn't known the museum had the oldest rock in the world, and on the way of looking, once I knew it by the book, I start to look from the first one again, because I might missed the oldest rock. The most shocked one is that it turned out to be "Only 20 peaces of Rongorongo of Easter Island are remained, and this museum has three of them", after visiting the museum. I missed it, of course. It should be written on the page about Santiago Museums, should not be written on the page of The Easter Island.                         *** I was wandering around the Centro afternoon. There are a lot of strange coffee shops in this area. While it is difficult to have a good coffee, but every coffee shops here serves good one, and the price here is cheap, 340 pesos. I went several coffee shops. How strange are the coffee shops here? Staffs of coffee shops are young beautiful girls and they are wearing a mini skirt, or body conscious costume. In some shops, the girls are wearing T-backs. Large coffee shops such as Cafe Haiti, or Cafe Caribe are located along the main street, and the costume is not so radical. I found some radical costume shops in the mall. Most of customers are white-collar workers wearing a suit. They just drink a coffee. I found a fresh juice shop. But I can't understand the description of the menu at all. I can't imagine a name of fruit which is written in Spanish. Only one I know is Naranha. Then, I ordered the Cherimoya juice. It's so hot anyway, I just drink something cold. I would feel I do not want to go anywhere. Anyway, I went to the hill of Santa Lucia. I would not get tired, because the height of the hill may be not so high. There is an elevator.
Fountain of Santa Lucia Hill
Yes, there was an elevator, but it was not running, nobody was here. So, I climbed the stairs. There is a fountain in the plaza of the summit, the children were jumping into it. Ice cream was sold near there, It was very cheap for children. Nice views from the top but a view of the mountains in the distance was faintly visible, it's fine day but it is dirty smog. It's a very different from pictures of postcard. On the way to back, the elevator was moving. An operator of the elevator must have been taking a long lunch break I'm sure.
How many Rongorongo existing in the world?
According to the site above and Wikipedia, there are 21 (or 20) written on Tablet, and five written on other.


Chinese Restaurant "New World" post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 21:24
Hotel Tokyo, Santiago

Saturday, 20 December, 1997

Yesterday, I went a Chinese restaurant for a dinner where an owner of Hotel Tokyo often goes. It's named 'Nuevo Mundo', means 'New World'. I ordered a fried rice (450 pesos), chop suey oriental (1300 pesos), and jasmine tea (400 pesos). I asked, 'May I have chopsticks?'. Then they give me it. It's great. I was happy. As Mrs. Monica said, it's reasonable price. It located an obscure area where is a little walk from Hotel Tokyo to the opposite direction to Centro. But I found one or two groups of tourists. Today, I went there again. I ate a little bit rich dishes. Fried rice, Congrio con Pana (2600 pesos), and Sopa Oriental (950 pesos). I want some Chinese tea at last, but they have only jasmine tea. I should have gone around Cerro San Cristobal, now I really think I should have done, but I stayed at hotel and just lay around. I have borrowed 'Chikyu-no-arukikata guidebook for Easter Island' from Mrs. Monica and read it. It's hot outside, but cool in the room, good for a nap. A garden of the hotel had a strong sunlight. Green was vivid in the sunshine. Birds sang. Flowers bloomed. It's beautiful. I was taking pictures of the garden. I found maid of the hotel napped on the sofa. I spent a serene day. Tomorrow, I will leave here for Patagonia.



パタゴニアへ post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 21:29


ロスエロエスの空港バス停留所へ行くとちょうど Centro Puerto のバスが来ていた。行きは高い方のバス(Tour Express 1000ペソ)だったが帰りは安い方のバス(640ペソ)というわけだ。

夕べ、モニカさんに宿代を払って、これからプンタアレーナスへ行って、それからプエルトモンへ行ってくるというと、いつ帰ってくるんだというので、1月2日だというと、じゃ、予約しときなさい。というわけで、半ば強引に1月2日にサンチアゴに戻ったときにも Hotel Tokyo に泊まることになってしまっていた。



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と、思ったら空港に舞い戻ってしまった。空港と町の往復分を損したが、まあ、そういうことはよくあることなので、気を取り直して? プエルトナタレスへ出発だ。





時間は9時近いが外はまだまだ明るい。夕食を食べに出かける。La Tranquera という店で2600ペソのサーモンを食べた。歩き方に載っているレストランだからかどうかしらないが、入り口の所で日本人の女の子とすれ違った。この町ではかなりな数の日本人とすれ違った。パタゴニアへの拠点であるせいか、プンタアレーナスよりもプエルトモンよりもずっと多かった。「氷河」と「ペンギン」はやはりそそるものがあるのかしらん。そーゆー自分も「氷河」と「ペンギン」を見に来ているのだけれど。





How to find a Paine Tour ? post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 21:35

22 December 1997 (Mon)

Today, I will find a tour to the Paine National Park. There are many travel agents in the town, go back and forth for a while do I do not know which one is good. Then, I entered a some travel agent it looks good. But there is no chance to speak so crowded many local people came to exchange money. In addition, they don't speak English, I had discouraged already. Some local guy translated what I want, and I said to go a different place.

The guy take me to SERNATUR tourist office. Of course, there was a very kind and able to communicate in English. "To go to Paine", I said, and They told me to come here at 7:00 am. Paine tour costs 12,000 pesos. The tour doesn't go to the Grey Glacier.

To go to the Glacier, I have to stay overnight in the Park, and walk three or four hours. They also have a tour to walk on the glacier. Hmm, I don't want walk on the glacier, and I don't like a hard tour. Walking Glacier Tour costs US $84. I asked how many people go, and he said "No, the tour is only for you". Eventually I decided not to join the tour. By the way, if you go to the glacier, 7,000 pesos for a regular bus, and 7,000 pesos for an accommodation at the shelter cabin called Refugio.

I understood it is hard to go to the glacier, and I think a little more, I went out SERNATUR and find out the different agents.

Next agent, Tours Mily's owner doesn't speak English, but young girl speaks English well. Many tourists who speak only English come, and she is for them.

Paine tour is 12,000 pesos. I said, "I want to go to the glacier, but I heard its hard to close the glacier". So, she introduced me a tour to the Serrano glacier. The Serrano glacier is in a national park accessible only by a boat, and I can go near the glacier. "Tomorrow, go to Paine, the day after tomorrow, why not go to Serrano", She said. I decided to go the both. The boat tour to the Serrano is sold only this agent. Serrano tour costs 20,000 pesos.

I paid both by credit card. It is 32,000 pesos. It's terrible if this is charged in U.S. dollars. I confirmed that it is charged in pesos. In Chile, every charging by credit card is in pesos.

Well, Today's job is done, take easy rest of the day.

I exchanged some money. At a money exchange shop called Stop Cambio, US $1 equals 422 pesos. In Santiago city, it was 435 pesos, it is so-so, not so different from Punta Arenas , or Puerto Montt.

I bought foods at the supermarket, checked the time of the bus, walked a little town, looked souvenir shops, and check a harbor for the tour of the day after tomorrow.

It's Christmas, it seems a number of buses is few. I quickly bought a morning bus ticket. it's 3,000 pesos.



パイネ国立公園へ post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 21:38








Paine national park by Ik T

Paine national park by Ik T uploaded on 27 May 2006



Guanaco in Paine Natioanl Park by Ik T

Guanaco in Paine Natioanl Park by Ik T uploaded on 27 May 2006





ペオエ湖 Lake Pehoé - Paine N.P. , Chile by Ik T

ペオエ湖 Lake Pehoé - Paine N.P. , Chile by Ik T uploaded on 23 May 2009




Torres del Paine by Ik T

Torres del Paine by Ik T uploaded on 27 May 2006














グレイ湖 Lake Grey  - Paine N.P. , Chile by Ik T

グレイ湖 Lake Grey - Paine N.P. , Chile by Ik T uploaded on 27 May 2006











ガウチョ Wikipedia


セラーノ氷河を見に行く post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 21:42


今日のツアーは、8時45分に港に集合なので朝は少しゆっくりできる。21 DE Mayo という船と A. DE AGOSTINI という船の二隻で出かけるようだ。私は、A. DE AGOSTINI という大きいほうの船だった。




途中、なんとかいう鳥がうじゃうじゃいた。ロンリープラネットによれば cormorant (鵜)だそうだ。なんだかわからないがうじゃうじゃいたが、あまり見てて楽しい鳥ではなかったらしく、あまり記憶にない。







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オタリア Wikipedia
シーライオンといっているのはこれ。英語ではSouth American Sea Lion。Sea Lionとはアシカ科の動物全般を指す言葉で、オタリアはアシカ科の一種。


Looking for Penguin Colony Tour at Punta Arenas post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 21:45
Sara Braun’s Palace - Punta Arenas

Dec 25, 1997 (Thr.)

I waked up early, took simple breakfast of bread and coffee. I checked out soon, not to miss a bus at 8 o'clock. At the front, I needed CLP 48,000, I took out four 10,000 notes, and counted 1,000 notes, but I had only five 1,000 notes, so I added one more 10,000 note. The owner of Hotel Natalino said, "OK, OK". He discounted CLP 8,000. Wow!

We didn't understand languages each other, but anyway we communicated. The owner was aged person, and very good guy. Hotel Natalino was a little expensive, but I didn't know what was a reasonable price at Puerto Natales.

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The bus drove for Punta Arenas with few passengers. It's Xmas, so few buses were leaving from Puerto Natales. The bus ticket was CLP2500 for coming, and CLP3000 for going. I'm not sure it's due to Xmas price, different bus company, or grade of a bus.

At Punta Arenas, I stayed Hotel Monte Carlo. It's CLP 7900 for shared bath, without breakfast. I used room for twin. It's floors and stairways were made of wood, it's the same as Japanese traditional hotels 'Ryokan'.

I left my language in the room, had a cup of coffee at a restaurant on 1st floor, then went out to have a lunch. But town was empty, every shops and restaurants were closed. Finally I found a restaurant at a street few blocks away from the square. There were no restaurant open, local people came to there by car.

I had nothing to do. I checked travel agent for Penguin Colony Tour and Laundry on Lonely Planet, and then read a book at the hotel.


Dec. 26th 1997 (Fri.)

Today's job was finding a Penguin Colony Tour.

I took a hot-dog at a restaurant 'Kalipso' near the hotel. In Chile, completo means hot-dog. It's a very different from hot-dog in coffee shop such as Doutor in Japan. It served with diced tomato and avocado paste on a sausage. I stay there long time with Café con leche.

There two penguin colonies near Punta Arenas. "Arukikata" describes one of them, "Seno Otway". Another is Monumento Natural Los Pinguinos, which is located at Isla Magdalena.

Lonely Planet said Isla Magdalena was larger and more interesting. At Seno Otway, people see penguins from outside of rope, but at Isla Magdalena, people can go near the penguins. A person at Turismo Comapa which had Tour of Isla Magdalena said the same thing. So I applied the tour for Isla Magdalena. US$30. The tour leaves a port at 3 o'clock tomorrow.

I went to the laundry. It's CLP 3360.

Punta Arenas was a smaller town than I expected before. There were few small museums and not so many sights of seeing.

I had nothing to do again, so I went to Zona Franca. Zona Franca means Free Zone (Duty Free Zone). "Arukikata" said everything is sold here, surprising at its scale, but don't think shopping malls in US or Japan.

You don't need to go there, except if you have nothing to do. I couldn't find good souvenir at there. Lonely Planet said, "If your camera was stolen, you can get new one at here".

Completo! by Cristian Cortés

Completo! by Cristian Cortés uploaded on 21 Apr 2007

by MrCortes


Going to see Magellanic Penguin post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 11:26

Flickr photos from the album.

Magellanic Penguin

27 December, 1997

I arrived at harbor earlier, but there is no ship. Soon after, a car ferry came and drop many tourists and tracks off. Most of tourists have large baggages, so it may come from south city far from here.

Which ship should we take? It was found that we should take this ferry. Wasted space for cars, the ferry was headed to the island of penguin colony with some tourists who want to see penguins. There is a shop to get drinks and snacks, and TV set to pass the time on board. It is similar to the Tokyo Bay ferry. It is nothing unusual to say until we get to the island.

Approaching the island, we're gathering near the exit. Suddenly, I found something streamline object jump on the water... It was penguins.

Little excited, Oh that's penguins! I told it to children nearby, but they just nodded calmly. It's only myself excited. When the ferry arrived the island, everyone seem to be excited to see penguins as well as I was.

On the island, there are a lot of penguins, but tourists are only able to walk around a beach. There is a rope stretched at 10m from the beach, and tourists couldn't go inside.

The penguins here are named Magellanic Penguins. The length is about 80cm. They made the nest by digging a hole at intervals of 3-4m inside the rope, and raising children. They have to go to sea for taking food, so the penguins are going out of rope, and coming back from sea. Since it's a craggy stones rather then sand on the beach, for shot-legged penguin it's difficult to walk. It's very cute while they waddling and sometimes falling down. They try to go out of the rope when human is not nearby.

If human approaches them, they ran away at a frightening pace. They are not too afraid of human, It is OK if they can keep some distance. They're staring at human rather curious. Some tourist seriously try to take a picture, but if they close to penguins, they ran away.

Penguins are vigilant out of rope, but they seem to understand that human don't come inside the rope, they are relaxed in the rope even it is just inside the rope. Some penguins made their nest just inside the rope, and the nests are observed in humans from nearby. Is it convenient to go to sea?

It was good penguin tour that I coulnd see overwhelming number of penguins and their nests.

I applied to Isla Magdalena Penguin colony tour on the previous day at a travel agency in the town of Punta Arenas. It was US$30. Tour starts 3:00 PM in the afternoon, and late afternoon when we get to the island. It may be related a time of activities of the penguins. It is not a problem because at this season it is so bright until about 11 PM.


What I bought at Puntarenas post_monchan Mon, 02/23/2009 - 17:13
チリのおみやげ by Ik T

チリのおみやげ by Ik T uploaded on 22 Feb 2009

A penguin ornament made of copper

チリのおみやげ by Ik T

チリのおみやげ by Ik T uploaded on 22 Feb 2009

Copper plate

Chile is famous for copper crafts. I found a copper crafts shop at Puntarenas, who sells nice copper accessories and ornaments to tourists.

I bought a penguin ornament and a plate. The plate describes a real monument called "Monumento al ovejero", which is located at Puntarenas.



オソルノ山近くへ観光ツアー post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 22:00





Mt. Osorno by Ik T

Mt. Osorno by Ik T uploaded on 28 Jun 2009






プエルトモンの街を歩く post_monchan Sun, 06/21/2009 - 21:57






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プエルトモンでは、Hotel Colina というちょっといいホテルに滞在した。町の中心に近いところにある中級ホテルで、一泊17000ペソ(朝食付き)。日本のビジネスホテル風の作りで、なんと部屋にテレビがある。

















プーコンは簡単に言うと新興リゾート地でトレッキングだのラフティングだののアクティビティが充実したところであるようだ。歩き方には載っていないがLonely Planet には載っていた。彼は出会った旅行者に薦められて行ってみたらしく、欧米人の間では評判がいいようだ。話を聞いた限りでは「お金をかけていろいろな遊びをする場所」という感じなので、日本人がはるか彼方のチリという国に求めるものとは違うのだろう。日本人にとってはパタゴニアとイースター島とアタカマ砂漠が重要なのではないだろうか。




1997年最後の日暮れ、チロエ島にて post_monchan Wed, 07/01/2009 - 21:25
Ancud, Chiloé Island